Tires, the 411: What you need to know before buying your next set
The dreaded day arrives when you are doing your pre-ride check, and notice your wear bars are out to greet you. Time for new tires!
Buying motorcycle tires can seem overwhelming with options like sizes, tread patterns, compounds, and brands. Let’s talk about what you need to know before you buy your next set.
Size matters…
Motorcycle manufacturers design each bike to have a specific tire size. The handling and performance of the machine is affected when the incorrect size is used. Luckily, determining the right size for your machine is easy.
Most major bike manufacturers have a sticker on the machine (likely on the swingarm or rear fender) that lists the correct sizes and pressures to run. If there is no sticker, the owner’s manual will have the tire size listed. If all else fails, call your local dealership’s service department. They can look it up for you.
Motorcycle tires use a number system. Generally, the size will have three numbers, for example 180/55 – 17. The first number is the width of the rim. This rim is 180mm wide. The second number represents the height of the tire as a percentage of the width. Since the rim is 180mm wide, this tire will be 99mm tall (55% of 180 = 99). The last number is the diameter of the rim. This wheel is 17 inches around.
Most off-road bikes and some older-model street bikes and will use two numbers instead of three, ex. 4.10 – 18. The first number still represents the width, 4.10 inches while the second is diameter, 18 inches. Pretty easy, right?
One last thing that is important to tire sizing, bias vs. radial.
Bias and radial describe the structure of steel bands that give the tire load-bearing strength. I won’t bore you with the details, know that if your manual calls for a 150/60 B 16 or a 160/60 R 17, the B and R stand for bias/radial.
It is very uncommon (but a few do exist) for a bike to mismatch bias and radial tires. As a rule of thumb, if your rear tire is radial, the front will be too. It is usually safe to assume that if there is no B or R in the size, it is a radial tire.
Don’t tread on me
The tread pattern is the arrangement of the cutouts on the surface of tires.
Think of tires as tools, each one has a specific function. Off-road tires (knobbies) will have aggressive treads to keep traction in extreme conditions (loose dirt, sand, and mud).
Sport tires will have little tread. This provides the largest surface area of rubber to the road for greatest traction.
The purpose of tread patterns is to shed water and loose debris found on the roads. Horizontal and vertical pockets in the tire displace that loose debris and water so that the tire has good contact with the pavement.
Make sure you choose the right amount of tread for the riding that you want to do.
Rubber is rubber
Not quite. Motorcycle tires are made from different rubber compounds that can enhance the performance of the machine.
Most off-road tires come in soft, medium, and hard compounds; each one designed for specific riding conditions.
A soft compound is great for riding in dry dirt or rocky landscapes, while tires made from a harder compound provide better traction in mud.
Medium compounds are a good choice if you are riding in all terrains.
Street tires are classified into two main categories: single-compound & dual-compound.
Single-compound tires are made of the same material from edge to edge. Like knobbies, they come in harder and softer compounds meant for specific applications. Softer for increased handling/traction and harder for a longer life span.
Generally, cruisers run harder tires because of their increased weight and intended use on longer highway rides. Sportbikes run softer compounds due to their cornering capabilities.
Dual-compounds have a hard compound center for extended highway usage with soft edges to enhance cornering traction. Dual-compounds are great for sport-touring.
Brands
Choosing a brand of tire is a personal preference. I steer towards the major brands (Michelin, Dunlop, Pirelli…) because I know they are all compliant with the standards of the largest motorcycle manufacturers. But, that is my opinion. I know other’s that have been thrilled with other brands.
The decision also depends on your budget. The top brands are usually more expensive. If you are looking to save money, there are several cheaper and smaller brands available. My advice to you if you take that route is to do your homework and find the tire’s speed rating. Make sure it meets your bike’s spec.
How much is this going to cost?
Now that you know the tire that you need for your machine, you can shop for options before heading to the shop.
I tell my customers to budget roughly $100 for a front tire and $200 for the rear. Plan on spending $100 – $200 in labor for mounting and balancing. Some states also include a tax for used tire disposal, so keep that in mind
Most shops have a discounted rate for tire changes for loose wheels. Meaning you bring them the wheels and not the whole bike. If you plan on going this route, call your shop and ask if they have any special instructions for your wheels. Marking direction of rotation or removing wheel spacers/sprockets/rotors are common requests.
Ride with confidence
Choosing the right tire for your bike is important. When you are confident in your tires, you become more confident in your riding.
Enjoy the process when it’s time for your next tire change. Don’t be afraid to try a new option until you find what is best for your riding experience!
